Multi-Striped Infinity Scarf

I am obsessed with stripes.They can be bold; they can be fun; they can be whimsical; they can be stately. I've been playing around with stripes and I thought I'd try my hand at creating an infinity scarf that has different widths of stripes. I also decided to use a variegated yarn so that some of the stripes transitioned. In this pattern, the stripes in the first half are four rows by four rows.  In the second half, the stripes are two by two.

I created this infinity scarf using my Brother KH-260 knitting machine.  This project took a few days to complete since switching colours every two or four rows can be time consuming.  In addition, I used Diana Sullivan's two-prong tool method of creating a non-rolling edge to prevent the dreaded stockinette curl.  That too took extra time. That said, I'm very pleased with the result and I'm excited to give it to my friend Clare for her birthday.

By creating two patterns, Clare can wear it a couple different ways - with the thicker blue and oatmeal stripes showing or the thinner variegated stripes showing. To make this scarf, I used a combination of worsted weight yarns: (A) Loops and Threads Impeccable (variegated in Luxury), (B) Bernat Super Value Worsted (in Grey Ragg), and (C) a shade of blue in Bernat Super Value Worsted. 

Instructions
Gauge: 15.5 stitches x 24 rows
Tension Dial: 7
Finished Measurements: 17" x 61"
Special Techniques: Diana Sullivan's No-Roll Edge - 2 prong

Note: This scarf has 368 rows.  The stripes for the first 184 rows are 2x2 with alternating yarns A and B.  The stripes for the second set of 184 are 4x4 alternating yarns B and C.

1. Using waste yarn, provisional cast-on 56 stitches (or amount to reach gauge)
2. Set Row Counter to 0.  Starting with yarn AWork stripes switching every two rows incorporating the no-roll edge technique on every even row.  End at row 184. Carry the unused yarn up the side.
3. Work stripes switching every four rows incorporating the no-roll edge technique on every even row.  End at row 368. Carry the unused yarn up the side.
4. Release stitches and transfer onto a spare knitting needle.
5. Remove waste yarn from provisional cast-on and transfer stitches onto another knitting needle.
6. Connect the two ends using Kitchener stitch.
7. Block. 

 

Last Minute Variegated Cowl

This morning, thanks to Facebook, I discovered it was my friend Lindsay's birthday. I wanted to make her something special but knew I didn't have much time. I whipped up this cowl on my Brother KH-260 knitting machine - from start to finish it took about an hour.

I had intended to make an infinity scarf that could be wrapped around the neck twice but I thought the striping would be better served by being crossed over the front.  I'm very pleased with the results!

To avoid the dreaded stockinette curl and to save time from having to add a crocheted or hand knit garter border, I used tuck stitch with punch card #1.  I love how the right side looks like a hybrid between stockinette and a rib pattern.  The wrong side looks like a hexagonal waffle pattern.

I used a bulky variegated yarn that I found in my stash.  It didn't have a label, but by feel, it has a similar gauge to Cascade Ecological.  The finished project is a rectangle with the dimensions of 9" by 37".  Once finished, I sewed each short edge to the end of the opposite long edge.

Pattern
Yarn: Bulky weight 
Machine: Brother K-260
Punch Card: #1
Tuck Stitch

1. Do a sample gauge swatch using tuck stitch and punch card #1 to figure out how many stitches you need to cast on to get an edge of 9 inches. (Note: my gauge worked out to 30 stitches using tension level 10) 
2. Cast on 30 stitches (or equivalent for your machine).  Work one row to the left.
3. Set up punch card #1 in tuck stitch (refer to your manual) and move carriage back to the right. Needles should be selected.
4. Work in tuck stitch until the cowl is approximately 37" in length. (I completed 292 rows)
5. Work one row in stockinette then cast off.

Cross one end over the other end (as shown in the picture).  One short edge should be on top of the end of the opposite long edge.  The other short edge will be under the opposite long edge.  Use clips (like my favourite Knit Klips shown in the picture to the right) to hold in place.  Hand stitch the edges together.